The return to Rock Hall
We returned to Portsmouth and the boat on Sunday morning 4/5. After getting things squared away and re-fueling, we returned the rental car to Enterprise with the help of Monk friends Alan and Patti Sutton. Because the WX forecast for the next few days was not good, we wanted to move north as soon and as far as possible so we left Ocean Marine at 12:30 Sunday afternoon. We made it to anchor in Jackson Creek by 7:00 PM after a few uncomfortable final hours underway, in following seas that kept building with the southerly wind. Monday we stayed anchored in Jackson Creek and relaxed in comfort as rain and wind moved through the area and severe weather, including some tornado watches, threatened the Norfolk and North Carolina area to our south.
Tuesday’s weather was not great and featured pretty windy and rough conditions on the Bay so we decided to endure a short (27 NM) but uncomfortable run up to Reedville, VA - just south of the Potomac River. We were anchored by 11:15 AM and relaxed for the remainder of the day as the wind continued to blow even in the relative shelter of the creek. Late in the afternoon we discovered we had dragged anchor somewhat, and had to move out into the center of the creek a bit farther and re-set our anchor. The anchor held us fine through the night and in the morning the weather forecast sounded somewhat reasonable (but not great) for our next leg up the Bay to Solomon’s Island, MD.
The first hour wasn’t too bad with moderate wind on our port quarter but as we reached the more exposed mouth of the Potomac we found the seas were well whipped up to 4’ – 6’ by the wind which was blowing against the out-flowing tidal current of the river. This provided a very rough and rolly ride across the river’s mouth that lasted about 2 1/2 hours. Once north of Point Lookout, the ride settled down somewhat for a while but as we got farther north and near the Patuxent River, the wind really increased out of the west. By the time we had to turn into the river, the entire area was a white froth of water blowing right at us. We continued the slog into the wind and waves and finally entered the harbor and called Zahniser’s, one of our all time favorite marinas, and dock master (Ms.) Terry, directed us to a great T-head spot where she was waiting to catch our lines and “welcome us back”.
Once tied up with the shore power cord connected, we turned on the heat to warm the cabin – in addition to the wind, the weather has been quite cool since we left Portsmouth on Sunday. The first thing we did was connect the hose and re-filled the water tank. Then I hosed off a coating of salt spray that had the boat pretty well covered from top to waterline, as Polly set things right in the interior. We had been underway in rough conditions and “living on the hook” for four days, so we both took advantage of the fine bath house facilities at Zahniser’s and luxuriated in long, hot showers followed by naps. We had decided to celebrate our arrival at Solomon’s by having dinner at Stoney’s Kingfishers – one of our favorite seafood restaurants on the Bay. At dinner we toasted the near-completion of our winter adventure, FLIGHT South, with a couple of Yuengling drafts and hoped the good forecast for the next day would hold.
Thursday morning we left the dock before 07:00 with the sun rising over the Eastern Shore and in conditions that seemed to be consistent with the forecast. Great weather - remained with us the entire day. It was pleasantly sunny and nearly flat calm for the entire 8 hour cruise up the Bay. Our enclosed bridge kept us warm and cozy, while we had coffee and breakfast there and later finished off the left over seafood we brought back from last night’s dinner, for our lunch. The auto helm did most of the steering while we took turns at watch standing and relaxed and read as the miles wound away behind us. This weather was a great and heavenly gift we were receiving as our welcome home to Rock Hall and Spring Cove. We were just finishing up our lunch as we approached the Bay Bridge and by 2:45 were tied up in slip E-1 where we will stay for the next few weeks as we haul the excess things off FLIGHT. We topped off our arrival with a big hug from marina owner and friend, Madelyn Reni. It was just as exciting a feeling to be back, as it was to have departed last October.
Trip Summary
v Departed October 3, 2008 and returned April 9, 2009
v 2300 total miles
v 309 engine hours
v 900 gallons diesel fuel
v 3 visits home
v 3 land excursions in Florida to visit with family and friends
v 120 days living aboard the boat
v Many, many interesting acquaintances and new friends
Saturday, April 11, 2009
Tuesday, March 24, 2009
Eagle welcoming us back to the BAY!Monday 3-23-09
We got another early start again, to beat the worst of the winds that are contained in the forecast for today in the area of Currituck Sound. Again, the strategy didn’t work as hoped – we encountered more wind earlier then predicted, about 30 minutes out of Coinjock as we got into Currituck Sound. The gusty wind created a steep 3’-4’ chop in the very shallow water of the sound. Currituck has only 3’ to 6’ of water in most of it, and even in the maintained channels there is only 8’ at many places. This type of water gets very lumpy in a hurry when any amount of wind is present. We endured the uncomfortable conditions until about 09:00 when we reached the more confined upper North Landing River which leads into the Albemarle and Chesapeake Canal. The windy conditions continued but in the more confined waterways the surface was pretty smooth.
The next thing we had to look forward to was the collection of lift and swing bridges as well as the lock at Great Bridge that we would have to negotiate before reaching Portsmouth. Most of the bridges only open on a certain schedule, such as on the hour or half-hour. There are also a few railroad bridges that are normally open but can close at any time if a train comes by. We were very lucky with the bridges and schedules and even the lock was waiting for us with its gates open as we approached. We arrived at Ocean Marine right at 1:00 PM and even though we planned to re-fuel with their competitive diesel, we went directly into one of slips that Matt, the dock master offered. The wind was even strong and gusty within their basin and made getting into the slip a bit challenging. Any way, we were finally at the threshold of our home waters – The Chesapeake Bay. Now the only thing we would have to negotiate with to get FLIGHT home is the weather.
We had decided that if the weather wasn’t really nice on the Bay and warmer than what we had been experiencing during the past week, we would leave the boat for a while and go home for a break, and allow spring time to catch up with us. We also want to be certain we can attend our granddaughter Kali’s first birthday party. On Wednesday we will pick up a rental from Enterprise and head home.
Our FLIGHT SOUTH has been a wonderful trip and adventure. Polly and I agree that we have learned some new things about ourselves and our goals and about the great boat we have. We have also tested our skills and abilities to be self sufficient and we have made some great new friends both on and off the water, and reinforced some existing friendships. It is certainly a trip neither of us would have wanted to miss, but for us, a second or third voyage south for the winter, couldn’t possibly be interesting enough or fun enough to do it again. We do say to any of our boating friends that might think about “going south for the winter”, just DO IT.
We got another early start again, to beat the worst of the winds that are contained in the forecast for today in the area of Currituck Sound. Again, the strategy didn’t work as hoped – we encountered more wind earlier then predicted, about 30 minutes out of Coinjock as we got into Currituck Sound. The gusty wind created a steep 3’-4’ chop in the very shallow water of the sound. Currituck has only 3’ to 6’ of water in most of it, and even in the maintained channels there is only 8’ at many places. This type of water gets very lumpy in a hurry when any amount of wind is present. We endured the uncomfortable conditions until about 09:00 when we reached the more confined upper North Landing River which leads into the Albemarle and Chesapeake Canal. The windy conditions continued but in the more confined waterways the surface was pretty smooth.
The next thing we had to look forward to was the collection of lift and swing bridges as well as the lock at Great Bridge that we would have to negotiate before reaching Portsmouth. Most of the bridges only open on a certain schedule, such as on the hour or half-hour. There are also a few railroad bridges that are normally open but can close at any time if a train comes by. We were very lucky with the bridges and schedules and even the lock was waiting for us with its gates open as we approached. We arrived at Ocean Marine right at 1:00 PM and even though we planned to re-fuel with their competitive diesel, we went directly into one of slips that Matt, the dock master offered. The wind was even strong and gusty within their basin and made getting into the slip a bit challenging. Any way, we were finally at the threshold of our home waters – The Chesapeake Bay. Now the only thing we would have to negotiate with to get FLIGHT home is the weather.
We had decided that if the weather wasn’t really nice on the Bay and warmer than what we had been experiencing during the past week, we would leave the boat for a while and go home for a break, and allow spring time to catch up with us. We also want to be certain we can attend our granddaughter Kali’s first birthday party. On Wednesday we will pick up a rental from Enterprise and head home.
Our FLIGHT SOUTH has been a wonderful trip and adventure. Polly and I agree that we have learned some new things about ourselves and our goals and about the great boat we have. We have also tested our skills and abilities to be self sufficient and we have made some great new friends both on and off the water, and reinforced some existing friendships. It is certainly a trip neither of us would have wanted to miss, but for us, a second or third voyage south for the winter, couldn’t possibly be interesting enough or fun enough to do it again. We do say to any of our boating friends that might think about “going south for the winter”, just DO IT.
Find some fun!
Love,
Ralph & Polly
Sunday 3-22-09Most things in life seem to average out. That holds true for boating conditions and the weather. This day’s weather and conditions paid us back in spades for what we endured yesterday. The early morning dawned with the perfect beauty of a religious experience – It was still, clear and cold with dollops of low fog on some of the distant creeks across the Pungo River from the marina. We left the dock at 07:00 along with s/v
LADY ITCHNOR. We traveled together to the entrance of the Alligator – Pungo Canal and continued through the 20 mile waterway as we chatted on the radio about Eagle sightings and other things related to the shore line as we passed. We had breakfast on the bridge and because the conditions were so easy and comfortable, decided to make it a long day and push on to Coinjock, NC about 80 miles from Dowry Creek. The 16 mile open water of Albemarle Sound must be crossed and it has the reputation of being very nasty with any amount of westerly or easterly winds, so today’s conditions would be perfect. The Albemarle was as smooth as a farm pond and we just took turns sitting at the helm as the miles clicked down. 
The, almost boring, time in transit today allowed us to discuss things like – what we should do about dinner – a) thaw something to be grilled, or b) re-heat some chili that Polly had made a while back. We went with c) – fried seafood at the nice little restaurant located at Coinjock Marina. We arrived at the marina about 4:00 PM and relaxed for a hour before using the showers and heading to the restaurant which was literally 25 feet from the side of our boat. The food was great and plentiful enough to provide tomorrow’s lunch, even though the service a bit slow, but then we didn’t have any place we had to be except the bunk on the boat, so we just enjoyed watching some tables near us. One in particular appeared to be a Sunday outing for a couple with 3 young and very well behaved kids along with grandma and grandpa. We were so impressed with the patience of the children that Polly stopped by the table to compliment the parents. She is nice that way, and it put a big smile on the adult’s faces as the children looked puzzled about what the strange lady said to dad and mom.Tomorrow we expect to arrive in Portsmouth, VA – almost home in our beloved Chesapeake Bay.
Barge / Tug passing us while we were tied up at Coinjock
Saturday 3-21-09
The WX forecast called for winds again today but not as strong as Friday and, they were supposed to diminish in the PM. I (RCB) interpreted that forecast to mean a manageable 2 hour transit of the Neuse River if we got an early enough start to avoid the peek winds at mid morning. By then we would be in more protected waters so accordingly, we departed at 06:50 with the running lights glowing. About 30 minutes out of
the harbor we were faced with 20 knot winds blowing right on our nose and 15 minutes after that we were bouncing on 5 to 6 ft. waves with a very short period. Spray was hitting the cabin windshield frequently and sometimes spray would even carry up to and over the bimini top that covered the bridge deck. We soon decided it was time to leave the bridge for the lower helm station in the cabin. That took a little planning, because we had not removed the cover across the front window. I made a trip to the fore deck and removed the cover while PMB gathered up the navigation things we had on the bridge and then together, we both carefully moved into the cabin. The move gave us both a few doses of spray and wet feet from the sea water that was running along the side deck. We were much more comfortable in the cabin and the auto pilot did most of the steering for the next hour and half while we hung onto the overhead hand rails and bounced up and down as
FLIGHT climbed up the steep front of waves before suddenly falling off the back side with a slam – but she kept on churning out the distance to the turn at Maw Point and into the Bay River. Here we found a much more comfortable ride because we had the wind and rolling seas on our starboard quarter. Those first couple of hours might just have been the most uncomfortable we have spent on the water since we have been boating.
The sea state and temperature became more and more comfortable as we continued on to the day’s destination, Dowry Creek Marina. This is a great stop where Mary the owner and a group of semi permanent live-aboard cruisers are available to help you in any way. Later, after hosing off the salt crust that covered
our boat, we joined the weekly Saturday evening “bring what you have” cocktail hour and pot luck supper in the cozy club house. We chatted with Brad & Joyce (from Oregon and live on their sailboat) who we met in the fall, and a new couple who are from Canada and spent the winter at Dowry Creek aboard their trawler, Linda and John and Roscoe, their great dog who adopted them when they were in Brunswick, GA. They furnished the beef stew that fed us all that evening. When things were winding down, a sailboat arrived at the marina and it was the same one that had come into Oriental on Friday and tied up in the slip right next to FLIGHT. The owners live and keep their boat, LADY ITCHNOR, in Kitty Hawk, NC and were out for a local cruise for the weekend. They left Oriental a few hours after we departed and also saw some of the same conditions we had. 
The WX forecast called for winds again today but not as strong as Friday and, they were supposed to diminish in the PM. I (RCB) interpreted that forecast to mean a manageable 2 hour transit of the Neuse River if we got an early enough start to avoid the peek winds at mid morning. By then we would be in more protected waters so accordingly, we departed at 06:50 with the running lights glowing. About 30 minutes out of
the harbor we were faced with 20 knot winds blowing right on our nose and 15 minutes after that we were bouncing on 5 to 6 ft. waves with a very short period. Spray was hitting the cabin windshield frequently and sometimes spray would even carry up to and over the bimini top that covered the bridge deck. We soon decided it was time to leave the bridge for the lower helm station in the cabin. That took a little planning, because we had not removed the cover across the front window. I made a trip to the fore deck and removed the cover while PMB gathered up the navigation things we had on the bridge and then together, we both carefully moved into the cabin. The move gave us both a few doses of spray and wet feet from the sea water that was running along the side deck. We were much more comfortable in the cabin and the auto pilot did most of the steering for the next hour and half while we hung onto the overhead hand rails and bounced up and down as
FLIGHT climbed up the steep front of waves before suddenly falling off the back side with a slam – but she kept on churning out the distance to the turn at Maw Point and into the Bay River. Here we found a much more comfortable ride because we had the wind and rolling seas on our starboard quarter. Those first couple of hours might just have been the most uncomfortable we have spent on the water since we have been boating.The sea state and temperature became more and more comfortable as we continued on to the day’s destination, Dowry Creek Marina. This is a great stop where Mary the owner and a group of semi permanent live-aboard cruisers are available to help you in any way. Later, after hosing off the salt crust that covered
our boat, we joined the weekly Saturday evening “bring what you have” cocktail hour and pot luck supper in the cozy club house. We chatted with Brad & Joyce (from Oregon and live on their sailboat) who we met in the fall, and a new couple who are from Canada and spent the winter at Dowry Creek aboard their trawler, Linda and John and Roscoe, their great dog who adopted them when they were in Brunswick, GA. They furnished the beef stew that fed us all that evening. When things were winding down, a sailboat arrived at the marina and it was the same one that had come into Oriental on Friday and tied up in the slip right next to FLIGHT. The owners live and keep their boat, LADY ITCHNOR, in Kitty Hawk, NC and were out for a local cruise for the weekend. They left Oriental a few hours after we departed and also saw some of the same conditions we had. 
Miniature Bottle Tree - crafted of copper.
Made by John.
Monday, March 23, 2009
Friday 3-20-09
We remained in Oriental because the WX forecast promised very windy and cool conditions. Also, we had a dinner invitation from friends and fellow Monk 36 owners, Madge and Larry Williams, that evening. We spent the day doing nothing in particular, too cold and breezy to think about washing the boat or even getting our bikes set up for riding. We mostly just relaxed and walked around the streets of the original fishing village and waterfront. We walked to a small grocery about a mile from the harbor and picked up some dairy items but resisted any or the other items since we are working to reduce the provisions we have aboard because we are getting closer and closer to the end of the voyage.
In addition to lounging around the boat and reading, we were entertained by some work that was going on aboard a large fishing trawler that was docked about 50 yards from us. Early in the morning the crew had positioned the boat so its stern (back end) was against the dock and the boat was perpendicular to the dock and almost closing off the fairway in the small harbor. They worked all day to replace the steel cables on the winches that are used to haul in the trawl nets. They had the new cable laid out straight right in a side street and it stretched about 4 blocks. Eventually the new cable was all wound onto the winches and the boat was re-positioned along the dock.
We remained in Oriental because the WX forecast promised very windy and cool conditions. Also, we had a dinner invitation from friends and fellow Monk 36 owners, Madge and Larry Williams, that evening. We spent the day doing nothing in particular, too cold and breezy to think about washing the boat or even getting our bikes set up for riding. We mostly just relaxed and walked around the streets of the original fishing village and waterfront. We walked to a small grocery about a mile from the harbor and picked up some dairy items but resisted any or the other items since we are working to reduce the provisions we have aboard because we are getting closer and closer to the end of the voyage.
In addition to lounging around the boat and reading, we were entertained by some work that was going on aboard a large fishing trawler that was docked about 50 yards from us. Early in the morning the crew had positioned the boat so its stern (back end) was against the dock and the boat was perpendicular to the dock and almost closing off the fairway in the small harbor. They worked all day to replace the steel cables on the winches that are used to haul in the trawl nets. They had the new cable laid out straight right in a side street and it stretched about 4 blocks. Eventually the new cable was all wound onto the winches and the boat was re-positioned along the dock.At 5:00PM Larry showed up and drove us to their home. Their house is a waterfront property situated on a creek just north of the village of Oriental. Their home is beautiful and their boat is docked right at the end of the back yard. Madge served a wonderful dinner and the four of us talked and laughed the evening away until Larry chauffeured us back to the boat. We certainly appreciated their hospitality especially since they were preparing for a month long trip to China. Larry is hoping to bring back some nice souvenirs from the land where all things seem to be made these days. Bon Voyage, Madge & Larry – we will be waiting to hear about this latest adventure when we see you again
Note man climbing out the boom.
What a job!
Thursday 3-19-09
After a still and comfortable night at anchor, we were underway by 07:15 in the semi-darkness of dawn. The only thing else that was moving as we got our anchor up, was a solitary sailboat headed north on the ICW. We weren’t the only early birds on the water after all. We followed behind the sailboat (about a mile or two) all of the way to Oriental, NC. The only thing notable about the 50 mile voyage that day was the weather – SPECTACULAR- bright blue sky with a light breeze for the entire voyage, with nearly other traffic on the waterway.
We did see a helicopter flying very low over Bogue Sound. The chopper was equipped with some strange looking gear – external booms that we guessed might hold electronic sensors for surveying the sea bottom. Or maybe they were counting the Dolphin – we did see a few of them. There also was a ship being unloaded in Beaufort harbor that had several small guard boats patrolling the ship’s perimeter.
We arrived in the little harbor of Oriental a bit after 1:00 PM and after we got the boat squared away and relaxed a bit, Polly phoned our friends Madge and Larry Williams, who later stopped by our boat to visit and invite us to dinner Friday evening (the invite also included pick-up and delivery). They were away on a trip to Australia and New Zealand when we stopped in Oriental last fall and now they will be leaving on Sunday for a trip to China – no wilting flowers are the Williams. They also own a Monk trawler and one of their problems is making time to cruise in it between travels. It is a real treat to know Madge and Larry.
After a still and comfortable night at anchor, we were underway by 07:15 in the semi-darkness of dawn. The only thing else that was moving as we got our anchor up, was a solitary sailboat headed north on the ICW. We weren’t the only early birds on the water after all. We followed behind the sailboat (about a mile or two) all of the way to Oriental, NC. The only thing notable about the 50 mile voyage that day was the weather – SPECTACULAR- bright blue sky with a light breeze for the entire voyage, with nearly other traffic on the waterway.
We did see a helicopter flying very low over Bogue Sound. The chopper was equipped with some strange looking gear – external booms that we guessed might hold electronic sensors for surveying the sea bottom. Or maybe they were counting the Dolphin – we did see a few of them. There also was a ship being unloaded in Beaufort harbor that had several small guard boats patrolling the ship’s perimeter.We arrived in the little harbor of Oriental a bit after 1:00 PM and after we got the boat squared away and relaxed a bit, Polly phoned our friends Madge and Larry Williams, who later stopped by our boat to visit and invite us to dinner Friday evening (the invite also included pick-up and delivery). They were away on a trip to Australia and New Zealand when we stopped in Oriental last fall and now they will be leaving on Sunday for a trip to China – no wilting flowers are the Williams. They also own a Monk trawler and one of their problems is making time to cruise in it between travels. It is a real treat to know Madge and Larry.
John O"Bryan, Madge and Larry Williams at the 2008 Monk Rendezvous.
Friday, March 20, 2009
Wednesday 3-18-09
We were both up early and it was still dark so we had our usual breakfast cereal and coffee and still had plenty of time to get underway by 07:30. Southport is located right where the ICW joins the Cape Fear River and the first 2 hours of today’s trip would require going up-stream on the river before turning off at a short land cut to Carolina Beach. From the bridge of our boat while still in the marina there appeared to be a glob of fog hanging over the river so I made a radio call to one of the many ferries that run between Southport and Bald Head Island, and requested a report on the visibility. A ferry captain came right back and said there was 4-5 miles on the river, so off we went. Indeed the conditions on the river were pretty good except the outgoing tide held our ground speed to about 6 knots all the way to Snows Cut. After we cleared the cut and turned north on the ICW the visibility began to lower and after about 30 minutes we had only about ¼ mile and that condition stayed with us for about 2 hours. It was pretty much IFR with the radar pointing out the major obstacles in our way about 3 minutes before we could actually see them – our GPS / chart plotter is worth 10 times what it cost in conditions like this.
The fog lifted and we could see it drift off the coast and just hang there, but we were enjoying a bright blue and sunny sky a half mile in shore from the beach. In the early afternoon we came upon some boating friends that we had met in the Bay last summer – Kay and Jim White aboard their Grand Banks trawler named BENCH REST. Jim is a retired judge and they live in Alabama which is pretty evident when you hear Jim call on the radio. They were headed south with another boat planning to go to the Bahamas before returning back north for the summer. Unfortunately, when we came upon them, they were hard aground about 100 feet outside of the channel. We stopped our boat (remaining in the channel) chatted with them across the water for 10 minutes or so before moving on. They were awaiting the arrival of Tow Boat U.S. to help them get afloat again.
We pushed on north of our originally planned stop, to Swansboro, NC and
anchored in the little harbor for the night. For about an hour and half before reaching Swansboro we traveled through the Marine Corps base, Camp LeJeune and we could hear the sound of artillery and were entertained by multiple passes of a flight of 3 Osprey aircraft passing over our boat numerous times on practice approaches.
We were anchored by 5:00 and had a simple dinner of grilled burgers with nice boiled red skin potatoes. After that, an hour of DVD entertainment and into the bunk.
We were both up early and it was still dark so we had our usual breakfast cereal and coffee and still had plenty of time to get underway by 07:30. Southport is located right where the ICW joins the Cape Fear River and the first 2 hours of today’s trip would require going up-stream on the river before turning off at a short land cut to Carolina Beach. From the bridge of our boat while still in the marina there appeared to be a glob of fog hanging over the river so I made a radio call to one of the many ferries that run between Southport and Bald Head Island, and requested a report on the visibility. A ferry captain came right back and said there was 4-5 miles on the river, so off we went. Indeed the conditions on the river were pretty good except the outgoing tide held our ground speed to about 6 knots all the way to Snows Cut. After we cleared the cut and turned north on the ICW the visibility began to lower and after about 30 minutes we had only about ¼ mile and that condition stayed with us for about 2 hours. It was pretty much IFR with the radar pointing out the major obstacles in our way about 3 minutes before we could actually see them – our GPS / chart plotter is worth 10 times what it cost in conditions like this.
The fog lifted and we could see it drift off the coast and just hang there, but we were enjoying a bright blue and sunny sky a half mile in shore from the beach. In the early afternoon we came upon some boating friends that we had met in the Bay last summer – Kay and Jim White aboard their Grand Banks trawler named BENCH REST. Jim is a retired judge and they live in Alabama which is pretty evident when you hear Jim call on the radio. They were headed south with another boat planning to go to the Bahamas before returning back north for the summer. Unfortunately, when we came upon them, they were hard aground about 100 feet outside of the channel. We stopped our boat (remaining in the channel) chatted with them across the water for 10 minutes or so before moving on. They were awaiting the arrival of Tow Boat U.S. to help them get afloat again.
We pushed on north of our originally planned stop, to Swansboro, NC and
anchored in the little harbor for the night. For about an hour and half before reaching Swansboro we traveled through the Marine Corps base, Camp LeJeune and we could hear the sound of artillery and were entertained by multiple passes of a flight of 3 Osprey aircraft passing over our boat numerous times on practice approaches.
We were anchored by 5:00 and had a simple dinner of grilled burgers with nice boiled red skin potatoes. After that, an hour of DVD entertainment and into the bunk.
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